Rome is the world’s greatest living museum: a wonderfully atmospheric, fabulously beautiful, evocative city overflowing with idiosyncratic personality, energy and romantic charm. Only short breaks in Rome mix such a wealth of antiquities, monuments and ancient sites so deeply within the fabric of a vibrant living city. The joy of short breaks in Rome is the way a casual stroll almost anywhere in the city will combine authentic cafes and bars, beautiful Baroque squares and the sudden unexpected arrival of extraordinary sights like the Forum or iconic Rome locations like the Trevi Fountain. The day-to-day streets of a great swathe of central Rome are fascinating at every turn and simply beautiful.
April to June and late September to October are the best months for traveling in Italy — temperatures are usually mild and the crowds aren’t quite so intense. Starting in mid-June, the summer rush really picks up, and from July to mid-September the country teems with visitors. August is the worst month: Not only does it get uncomfortably hot, muggy, and crowded, but the entire country goes on vacation at least from August 15 to the end of the month — and many Italians take off the entire month. Many hotels, restaurants, and shops are closed (except at the spas, beaches, and islands, which are where 70% of the Italians head). From late October to Easter, most attractions go on shorter winter hours or are closed for renovation. Many hotels and restaurants take a month or two off between November and February, spa and beach destinations become padlocked ghost towns, and it can get much colder than you’d expect (it might even snow).
The Pantheon
Constructed to honor all pagan gods, this best preserved temple of ancient Rome was rebuilt in the 2nd century AD by Emperor Hadrian, and to him much of the credit is due for the perfect dimensions: 141 feet high by 141 feet wide, with a vast dome that was the largest ever designed until the 20th century.
The Vatican
Though its population numbers only in the few hundreds, the Vatican—home base for the Catholic Church and the pope—makes up for them with the millions who visit each year. Embraced by the arms of the colonnades of St. Peter’s Square, they attend Papal Mass, marvel at St. Peter’s Basilica, and savor Michelangelo’s Sistine Ceiling.
The Colosseum
Legend has it that as long as the Colosseum stands, Rome will stand; and when Rome falls, so will the world. One of the seven wonders of the world, the mammoth amphitheater was begun by Emperor Vespasian and inaugurated by Titus in the year 80. For “the grandeur that was Rome,” this obstinate oval can’t be topped.
Piazza Navona
You couldn’t concoct a more Roman street scene: caffès and crowded tables at street level, coral- and rust-colored houses above, most lined with wrought-iron balconies, and, at the center of this urban “living room,” Bernini’s spectacular Fountain of the Four Rivers and Borromini’s super-theatrical Sant’Agnese.
Roman Forum
This fabled labyrinth of ruins variously served as a political playground, a commerce mart, and a place where justice was dispensed during the days of the emperors (500 BC to 400 AD). Today, the Forum is a silent ruin—sic transit gloria mundi (so passes away the glory of the world).
The Campidoglio
Catch a bird’s-eye view of the Roman Forum from Michelangelo’s piazza, situated atop one of the highest spots in Rome, the Capitoline Hill. Here you’ll find the Capitoline Museums and beloved Santa Maria in Aracoeli.
Trevi Fountain
One of the few fountains in Rome that’s actually more absorbing than the people crowding around it, the Fontana di Trevi was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732. Immortalized in Three Coins in the Fountain and La Dolce Vita, this granddaddy of all fountains may be your ticket back to Rome—that is, if you throw a coin into it.
The Spanish Steps
Byron, Shelley, and Keats all drew inspiration from this magnificent “Scalinata,” constructed in 1723. Connecting the ritzy shops at the bottom with the ritzy hotels at the top, this is the place for prime people-watching. The steps face west, so sunsets offer great photo-ops.
Castel Sant’Angelo
Originally constructed as a mausoleum for Roman emperor Hadrian, this cylindrical building, which towers over the city’s skyline, alternately served as a fortress, a castle, and papal prison.
Trastevere
Located just across the Tiber River, this time-stained, charming neighborhood is a maze of jumbled alleyways, traditional Roman trattorie, cobblestone streets, and medieval houses. The area also boasts the oldest church of Rome—Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Musei Capitolini
None other than the great Michelangelo would suffice to design the master plan for Rome’s own collection of art and archaeological museums, which enticingly crown the Capitoline Hill. The museum is divided into two wings: Palazzo Nuovo, devoted to ancient sculpture, and the Palazzo dei Conservatori, with great Old Masters.
Palazzo Doria-Pamphili
Waltzing through this 17th-century palace may be the closest you ever get to the aristocratic nobles. Fabled Old Master paintings line the walls, with pride of place going to Velàzquez’s Innocent X (the family pope), perhaps the greatest portrait ever painted.
Palazzo Altemps
Catch a glimpse of exquisite taste in this 15th-century palace, once owned by Cardinal Altemps and today part of the Museo Nazionale Romano—on view are many legendary examples of classic Greek and Roman sculpture, including the “Ludovisi Throne.”
Galleria Borghese
Only the best could only satisfy the aesthetic taste of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, whose holdings evoke the essence of Baroque Rome. Spectacularly frescoed ceilings and multihued marble walls frame great Bernini sculptures and paintings by Titian and Raphael.
Keats-Shelley House
During the 18th century, the Spanish Steps became a gathering place for Grand Tour artists and writers, so here in 1821 the English Romantic poet John Keats came to write—and ultimately die (of tuberculosis)—in the Casina Rossa, a dusty pink house at the base of the steps.
Museo Nazionale Romano
The city’s own great collections of ancient Roman sculpture, paintings, and precious relics—salvaged from excavations completed over several centuries—is so vast that four separate museums at different locations are needed: Palazzo Altemps, Aula Ottagona, Terme di Diocleziano, and Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
Villa Farnesina
Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, Renaissance-era version, are on display at this extravagant villa, built around 1511 by banker Agostino Chigi, with loggias decorated by Raphael. After lavish dinners, Chigi would toss his gold plates into the Tiber and slyly retrieve them with a net in the water.
Vatican Museums
The seemingly endless line waiting for entry here can be intimidating, but the reward—a vast collection of masterpieces, including the Raphael Rooms—make it worth it. The agony, not the ecstasy, of it all is summed up in Michelangelo’s sublime Last Judgment and Sistine ceiling.
Palazzo Barberini
The three fathers of the Baroque—Bernini, Borromini, and Pietro da Cortona—whipped up this imposing 17th-century palace for the Croesus-rich Barberini family. Built around 1625, with the Gran Salone, Rome’s largest ballroom, the palazzo is now home to the city’s collection of Old Master paintings.
Palazzo Spada
A glorious 17th-century assemblage of stuccowork and statuary, together with the impressive trompe l’oeil “trick” of its courtyard colonnade, inspired by master designer Borromini, is what draws the crowds.
St. Peter’s Basilica
Every year, millions of pilgrims flock to the world’s most important Catholic church, as art lovers marvel at Michelangelo’s cupola, Bernini’s papal altar, and the vast nave. The burial site of its namesake, St. Peter’s took such Italian masterminds as Raphael and Bramante more than a century to complete.
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Even locals can’t help being mesmerized by the splendors of this church’s piazza, chief among them being the incandescent Byzantine mosaics on the basilica’s facade and the elegant octagonal fountain. Inside, the vast nave stupefies with its gigantic Roman columns and glittering golden mosaics.
Sant’Ignazio
Studying the dome up high in this fantastically bejeweled 1626 Jesuit church, you may think your eyes are playing tricks on you. But it’s not your eyes! That extraordinarily accurate replica of a Baroque dome was painted in its place after plans for the cupola fell through.
Sant’Agnese in Agone
Prominently positioned in Piazza Navona, this church has some of Rome’s most quintessential Baroque architecture. Designed by Borromini (1652), a fervent rival of Bernini’s, the church’s facade is a stunning symphony of voluminous concave spaces and bell towers.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin
Moody, medieval, and magnificent, this 12th-century Romanesque church draws throngs to its portico where the stone Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth) sits in judgment—dare you test the legend that its stone jaws clamp shut on the hands of the untruthful?
San Clemente
Uncover the layers of Medieval Rome here at this half-basilica, half archaeological site. Famed for its mosaics, this 12th-century church actually sits on top of another church that dates back to the 4th century and a 2nd-century BC temple to the pagan god, Mithras.
Santa Maria del Popolo
Few other churches in Rome reflect the richness of Renaissance art as does Santa Maria del Popolo, thanks to its nave enlarged by Bramante and the Chigi Chapel, a Raphael masterwork. But equally striking are Baroque treasures like Caravaggio’s Cerasi Chapel and Bernini’s mosaic-covered dome.
Santa Maria sopra Minerva
Set on a piazza graced by Bernini’s famed elephant obelisk, this Gothic-style church—best known for Michelangelo’s Risen Christ and famed frescoes by Filippino Lippi—gives off a heavenly aura, thanks to arched blue ceilings ashimmer with gold stars.
Santa Maria in Aracoeli
Set on the Capitoline Hill and atop a towering, 137-step stairway (designed in 1348 to celebrate the passing of the Black Death), this Romanesque-Gothic landmark was begun in the 6th century and is home to the famed Santo Bambino, a carved-wood Baby Jesus figure.
San Giovanni in Laterno
It’s hard to miss the 15 gargantuan marble statues (including Christ and the 12 Apostles) that tower over the facade of Rome’s official cathedral and first church of the popes. The Baroque interior was accomplished by Borromini, but many pilgrims head first to the legendary Scala Santa (Holy Steps).
Getting from Rome Airport
Rome has two main airports: Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino) 16 miles south west, and Ciampino 10 miles south east. Getting to Rome from Fiumicino is easy. Take the Termini Line train directly to Termini station. It takes 30 minutes. Alternatively, take the more frequent train to Tiburtina and then metro. Night buses link Fiumicino to Tiburtina. Many charter and cheap flights arrive at Ciampino Airport. Metro Line A goes to Termini, the Spanish Steps and the Vatican. At night it may be easier to get a taxi.
Walking
Walking is easily the best way of getting around Rome. On foot you will happen across endless monuments, discover unusual cafes and bars, and find charming family restaurants. However, Rome is quite spread out and has no clear definable centre point. Taking in all the sights like the Vatican and the Coliseum in a short weekend will necessitate a little public transport (probably the metro), especially in the summer when walking in Rome can be tiring.
Sightseeing Buses
Rome attractions are quite spread out and public transport is not all it could be so Rome sightseeing buses are an attractive option. Rome sightseeing buses are a convenient way of getting around Rome in the heat of the summer.
Taxi
Yellow or white Rome taxis are quite expensive and difficult to hail in the street. Head for taxi stands in Termini, Piazza did Spagna, Piazza Sonnino, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Venezia, Piazza della Repubblica and the Pantheon. Taxis are metered and subject to extra charges for night time, Sunday and bags. Radio taxis can be called in advance. If out late, many bars will phone a taxi for you.
Public Transport
Rome does not have a particularly impressive public transport system. The metro is very limited and buses and trams can be crowded and quite slow. The same tickets are valid on buses, trams and metro and can be bought from metro station vending machines, ticket offices and tobacconists. If you are using single tickets buy several in one go. There are 1 day, 3 day and weekly passes. The Roma Pass, valid for 3 days, includes free or reduced admission to museums and archaeological sites, exhibitions etc., and comes with maps and information. Available from tourist offices, airports and participating museums.
Metro
Rome metro has just 2 lines: A and B. Line A runs east to west and is useful for the Vatican, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Barberini. Line B runs northeast to southwest and stops at the Coliseum, St. Paul’s Basilica and Circo Massimo.
Buses and Trams
Rome buses go everywhere in theory. Bus stops show where the bus is coming from and where it is going. Tickets must be bought in advance and stamped on the bus. Get on at the front or back and exit at the middle. Rome trams tend to be crowded and visit few famous sights. Trams run close to the Vatican, the Coliseum and Trastevere.
River Boat
A cheap ferry links Tiberina Island to Duca d’Aosta Bridge on the River Tiber. Longer Rome river trips and dinner cruises are available.
Bicycles and Scooters
Can be rented but hardly worth the trouble for a short break.