Well informed, eloquent and oh-so-romantic, the ‘City of Light’ is a philosopher, a poet, a crooner. As it always has been, Paris is a million different things to a million different people.

Paris has all but exhausted the superlatives that can reasonably be applied to any city. Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower – at sunrise, at sunset, at night – have been described countless times, as have the Seine and the subtle (and not-so-subtle) differences between the Left and Right Banks. But what writers have been unable to capture is the grandness and even the magic.

When To Go

The City of Light is magical all year round, but it’s particularly gorgeous in June when the long days (the sun doesn’t set until 10 PM) stretch sightseeing hours and make it ideal to linger in the cafés practicing the city’s favorite pastime—people-watching.

Winter can be dark and chilly, but it’s also the best time to find cheap airfares and hotel deals.

April in Paris, despite what the song says, is often rainy.

Summer is the most popular (and expensive) season, and at the height of it, in July, Paris can feel like a city under siege, bursting at the seams as crowds descend en masse. Keep in mind that, like some other European cities, Paris somewhat shuts down in August—some restaurants are closed for the entire month, for example—though there are still plenty of fun things to do, namely free open-air movies and concerts, and the popular Paris Plage, the “beach” on the right bank of the Seine.

September is gorgeous, with temperate weather, saner airfares, and cultural events timed for the rentrée (or return), signifying the end of summer vacation.

Top Paris Attractions

Eiffel Tower
Originally built as a temporary exhibition for the 1889 World’s Fair, today there’s no other monument that symbolizes Paris better than Gustave Eiffel’s world-famous Iron Lady. It’s breathtaking, whether you see it sparkling from your hotel window after dark or join the millions of annual visitors to brave the glass-bottom elevator trip to the top.

Notre-Dame
It took almost 200 years to finish this 12th-century Gothic masterpiece immortalized by Victor Hugo and his fictional hunchback. Climb the spiral staircase of the bell towers for a close-up gander at the gargoyles, or have a peek at relics such as the Crown of Thorns in the cathedral treasury.

Jardin du Luxembourg
This is one of the prime leisure spots on the Left Bank for urban-weary Parisians. Relax in a reclining park chair with a picnic lunch or a book and watch a game of boules while the kids enjoy a marionette show.

Jardin des Tuileries
The 17th-century formal French landscape of these gardens behind the Louvre is punctuated by contemporary sculptures, a café, and two noteworthy museums: the Musée du Jeu de Paume and the Musée de l’Orangerie. In summer there’s a small amusement park and Ferris wheel.

Arc de Triomphe
The 164-foot-tall Arc de Triomphe has served as the backdrop to official military parades since its completion in 1836. Use the underground passageway to reach the monument, where you can visit the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier beneath the arch or climb the stairs for amazing panoramic views of the city.

Sacré-Coeur
This wedding cake white basilica dominates Montmartre’s hilltop. Most visitors are content with the views overlooking the city from the basilica stairs, but ambitious sight seekers can climb to the bell tower for an even higher vantage point.

Opéra Garnier
Opulent, stunning, and magnificently over the top, Charles Garnier’s opera house is one of the outstanding jewels of the Second Empire. Its illustrious marble staircase and ruby-red box seats have been featured in films from Dangerous Liaisons to Marie-Antoinette, and its backstage corridors are famously haunted by the Phantom of the Opera.

Centre Georges Pompidou
Still visually shocking three decades after its opening in 1977, the Pompidou Centre’s ground-breaking “inside-out” design is the top destination for modern art lovers in Paris.

Musée d’Orsay
After a stunted lifespan as a train station constructed for the 1900 World’s Fair, this beautiful Belle Epoch building is filled with Art Nouveau objects, Impressionist paintings, vintage photography, and realist sculptures. Don’t miss the scale model of the Opéra Garnier or the views of the Seine from the grand ballroom now housing the museum’s restaurant.

Louvre
The grandest museum in the world started out as a humble fortress in the 12th century, growing in size and prestige as a sumptuous royal palace until the French Revolution gave it a new lease on life as home to the young Republic’s art collection. The Big Three—Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Venus de Milo—should not be missed.

Getting Around

Paris is without question best explored on foot and, thanks to Baron Haussmann’s mid-19th-century redesign, the City of Light is a compact wonder of wide boulevards, gracious parks, and leafy squares. When you want a lift, though, public transportation is easy and inexpensive. The métro (subway) goes just about everywhere you’re going for EUR 1.40 a ride (a carnet, or “pack” of 10 tickets is EUR 10.90); tickets are good for the vast bus network, too.

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (or neighborhoods) spiraling out from the center of the city. The numbers reveal the neighborhood’s location, and its age: the 1st arrondissement at the city’s heart being the oldest. The arrondissements in central Paris—the 1st to 8th—are the most-visited.

It’s worth picking up a copy of Paris Pratique, the essential map guide, available at bookstores, and souvenir shops.

Hours

Paris is by no means a 24/7 city so planning your days beforehand can save you aggravation. Museums are closed one day a week, usually Tuesday, and most stay open late at least one night each week, which is also the least crowded time to visit. Store hours are generally 10 AM to 7:30 PM, though smaller shops may not open until 11 AM, only to close for several hours during the afternoon. Some retailers are still barred by law from doing business on Sunday, but exceptions include the shops along the Champs-Elysées, the Carrousel du Louvre, and around the Marais, where most boutiques open at 2 PM.