Every evening they come to sit by the shore to await the sunset: a family of six visiting from some distant land. During the day the parents may have dined in style, or perhaps laughed a couple of hours away as they gambled in the glitzy casinos downtown. The kids may have gone snorkeling or diving, or perhaps drove an ATV across the arid, moonlike surface of the northern coast. The evening, though, is the time when they all come together as a family to watch the sun dip down below the water. In the tangerine light of another Aruba sunset, they hug and laugh, six happy silhouettes against the Caribbean sky.

Cruise ships gleam in Oranjestad Harbour, while thousands of eager tourists scavenge through souvenir stalls looking for the perfect memento. The mile-long stretch of L. G. Smith Boulevard is lined with cafés, designer stores, and signs for the latest Vegas-style shows. The countryside is dotted with colorful cunucu (country-style houses) and small neighborhood shops. Suddenly, the rocky desert landscape is startlingly austere.

Aruba offers an amazingly diverse experience in a small package. Tourists flock here for the sunny climate, perfect waters, and excellent beaches—so much so that the area around beautiful Eagle Beach is an almost unbroken line of hotels, restaurants, and bars. Here on the south coast, the action is nonstop both day and night, while the fiercely rugged north coast is a desolate and rocky landscape that has so far resisted development.

Aruba is the smallest of the ABC islands—only 120 square mi (193 square km) in area—with Bonaire and Curaçao rounding out the trio. In 1986, after much lobbying, Aruba separated from the rest of the Netherlands Antilles to become a separate part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Perhaps the separation came so easily because there is so little Dutch presence on the island. The small population of 72,000 is of mainly mixed extraction, and many people show distinct traces of some Amerindian ancestry.

When To Go

Aruba’s popularity means that hotels are usually booked solid during the high season from mid-December through mid-April or early May, so early booking is essential. During other times of the year, rate reductions can be dramatic.

Aruba doesn’t really have a rainy season and rarely sees a hurricane, so you take fewer chances by coming here in late summer and fall. However, if you travel at this time, just remember that hurricanes and tropical storms are not unheard of—just rare.

February or March witnesses a spectacular Carnival, a riot of color whirling to the tunes of steel bands and culminating in the Grand Parade, where some of the floats rival the extravagance of those in the Big Easy’s Mardi Gras.

Island Activities

Soft, sandy beaches and turquoise waters are the biggest draws in Aruba. They are often crowded, particularly the best stretches of Eagle Beach, which is the island’s—and perhaps one of the Caribbean’s—finest. Baby Beach, on the east end of the island, is also good.

But the island also comes alive by night and has become a true party hot spot. The casinos —though not as elaborate as those in Las Vegas—are among the best of any Caribbean island.

Restaurants are very good, though sometimes expensive.

Diving is good in Aruba, though perhaps not as spectacular as in nearby Bonaire.

Near-constant breezes and tranquil, protected waters have proven to be a boon for windsurfers, who have discovered that conditions on the southwestern coast are ideal for their sport.

A largely undeveloped region in Arikok National Wildlife Park is the destination of choice for those wishing to hike and explore some wild terrain.

Getting To Aruba

Many airlines fly nonstop to Aruba from several cities in North America, and if you need to make connections, it will usually be at a U.S. airport. Aruba is 2½ hours from Miami and 4½ hours from New York. Smaller airlines connect the Dutch islands in the Caribbean, often using Aruba as a hub. The island’s state-of-the-art Reina Beatrix International Airport (AUA) is equipped with thorough security, many flight displays, and state-of-the-art baggage handling systems. Travelers to the United States clear U.S. Customs and Immigration before leaving Aruba.

Getting Around

A taxi from the airport to most hotels takes about 20 minutes. It will cost about $17 to get to the hotels along Eagle Beach, $19 to the high-rise hotels on Palm Beach, and $10 to the hotels downtown. Buses are also an option for traveling around the island and are especially convenient if you are just popping into town from your hotel for a bit of shopping. The hourly bus schedules can be less convenient for getting to the beach, but the price is right, at $1.25 one way ($2.30 round-trip).

Renting a Car: If you want to explore the countryside at your leisure and try different beaches, then you should rent a car, but for just getting to and around town, taxis are preferable, and you can use tour companies to arrange your activities. If you rent a car, try to make reservations before arriving, and rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle if you plan to explore the island’s natural sights. Some companies have minimum ages for renting a car.