When in Rome, do as you wish to do. Eat gelato for every meal. Steal a kiss by the Spanish Steps. And be sure to heed legend by tossing coins into the Trevi Fountain to ensure great romantic fortune.

Local flavor: There’s no more refreshing treat on a hot day than gelato. Most vendors make their own, with flavors ranging from fragola (strawberry) to scracciatella (an elegant version of chocolate chip). Across from the Vatican, you’ll find people enjoying gelato even at 1am, all of them sharing a sweet moment with their friends, Romans, and countrymen.

Place we love, even if it’s touristy: Ancient, yet surrounded by swerving Vespas, the iconic Coliseum is a must-see. In the glory days of Roman civilization, gladiators made their fortunes here, criminals met their demise at the mouth of lions, and mock battles titillated crowds of 50,000 souls tucked among the Corinthian columns.

Did we mention it’s free? An incredible path filled with surprises leads from the Spanish Steps to the Trevi Fountain, then the Pantheon, and then the Piazza Navona. Be sure to bring your camera–you never known when you’ll turn a corner to find a gypsy with talking parrot, or a colorful impromptu puppet show set to music by The Beatles.

History lesson: Where do you start when the city itself is a living, breathing history lesson? Take your pick. Wander the majestic ruins of The Forum for a peek into early city life. Marvel at Michelangelo’s handiwork at the celebrated Sistine Chapel. Creep through the catacombs of St. Callixturs. And, take a trip down archaeological memory lane along the Tiber River.

The real deal: Be sure to stop and smell the roses at Campo de Fiori, a medieval fruit and vegetable market, where you’ll find everything from fresh tomatoes and cherries to seasoned sardines and sky-high sunflowers. Watch locals haggle in Italian, then test your own bargaining skills with the hatters, jewelers, garment makers, and carpenters.

Chill-out spot: Find tranquility among the gardens, fountains, and statues of Villa Borghese, which was opened to the public in 1903. Load up your iPod with baroque music and bring an antipasti and pinot grigio picnic to the lakeside walkways to savor la dolce vida amid the oak trees.

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